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Just looked into my rats' cage to find that our Rex, Snyder, has a severely hurt leg that was fine last night. It is VERY swollen and bright pink. It has a very shallow scrape that was oozing a little, which I put some hydro peroxide on.  Looking at it, I think she must have gotten her foot stuck in her cage and twisted it. She isn't acting like she is in pain, and is moving around normally, even climbIng. It isn't twisted or broken looking. But it is pretty ugly. I'm puttin her in a small cage wih an ice pack so she won't move around so much, but I don't know if a vet could Inkdo anything. What dO you guys think?

Just like humans, dogs can get constipated every once in a while too. Dogs that experience frequent constipation though may require a visit to the vet since it may be a sign of a more serious condition. Imagine how uncomfortable it is for you when you're constipated. Your dog will feel nearly the same way.

Dogs can experience constipation for many different reasons just like humans. Constipation frequently occurs in dogs that don't get enough fiber in their diet. Constipation also frequently occurs in dehydrated dogs. Another reason why dogs can develop this condition is if they happen to eat something they're not supposed to. By nature, dogs will eat many different things that they find.

Lack of exercise is another reason why dogs become constipated. Another contributing factor is stress. The colon's pathway can also become blocked if the prostate gland becomes enlarged which can lead to dog constipation. This particular situation is much more common in older canines.

Dogs that are constipated have problems when trying to pass stool. Dogs may be constipated enough that it will prevent them from passing even the smallest amount of stool. Any feces that is produced will likely be small and hard. While trying to have a bowel movement, your dog may experience slight pain. Two common symptoms of constipation in dogs include loss of appetite and swollen abdominal region.

In order to relieve your dog of constipation, you can try various treatments at home. If you have cereal that has plenty of fiber, try mixing it with your dog's food. Canned pumpkin is another home treatment that you should try. Try giving your dog Metamucil or mineral oil too.

If your dog suffers from chronic constipation, then it's best that you take him to see a vet. If you see that your dog's stool has blood in it, then you should take him to the vet too. Vets can give your dog an enema or a laxative. Intravenous fluids may be necessary if your dog becomes dehydrated.

There are various ways that owners can attempt to keep constipation at bay in their dogs. Avoid feeding your dog low-quality food or a diet that doesn't have a lot of fiber in it. Dogs can easily become dehydrated during the summer months which will increase the risk, so make sure your dog can get fresh water whenever he needs it. Owners need to ensure that their dogs are getting enough exercise too.

This unfortunately isn't one of the only animal diseases that you need to be concerned about as an owner. Owners should be able to recognize many different signs in case something goes wrong. The best thing that you can do is seek help as soon as you possibly can from a qualified vet.

1. Do keep gerbils in same sex pairs.
2. Do make sure your gerbils always have water and food.
3. Don't keep your gerbil's tank or cage in the sunlight or where there are drafts.
4. Don't hold or pull a gerbil by the tail.
5. Do clean their cage every couple of weeks.
6. Do keep the gerbil cage closed securely.
7. Do give a gerbil plenty of cardboard to chew - toilet paper rolls are perfect.
8. Don't hold a gerbil very far away from the ground - they are jumpy and can easily get hurt.
9. Do stay calm while holding a gerbil, the calmer you are the calmer they are.
10. Don't give a gerbil a bath, if their fur is dirty use a wet rag to clean them off.

For more information on gerbils go to our Gerbil page.

I saw a previous forum about this with alot of misinformation on how to us co2 for this and its effects. You could put a rat in a fridge sized cardboard box outdoors, tap up the edges, add maybe 15 punctures with a knife(try it before hand so the box doesn't pop, you'll find the right amount), rent a 10lb co2 cylinder and ask the man at the counter about the effects of co2. They will say that at 5000ppm(fully opened cylinder will easily achieve this) you will pass out and die before you even knew what happened. It is instant when done right(not hard to do, just need a lung full of co2 and you will die before you knew what happened), which is why you should do it outdoors and step far away while the co2 is flowing(Perhaps a fan blowing across the slits in the opposite direction of you). It's less than 50 dollars to rent the filled cylinder, ask about a regulator. Hope this helps, they really won't suffer at all. Offhand thought, you could get the rat familar with the box a few days before hand and then wait for it to fall asleep when the time is right and do what you must. It could be any animal really, I reccomend getting the advice of a vet as to the condition of you pet, and I would not be swayed by a vet about them doing the job though. A tad bit of effort and a lower cost than having the vet do it, you can truly send your pet off peacefully.

Bearded Dragons

The proper name for a bearded dragon is Pogona Henrylawsoni. Bearded dragons originated in the rocky desert regions and dry open woodlands. In the wild they will stand up on their hind legs to escape from potential danger, which is thought to be used for temperature control. They also use their ability to change color to keep their temperature stable and to hide from danger. Bearded Dragons will show you their beard if they are at all threatened, startled or excited. They exted a bone-like structure that resembles a beard and the color of their skin changes to almost black and can extend down to cover the dragons chest.

If a dragon wants to show he is dominant he may head bob. Head bobbins is also preformed during breeding season to get the female dragon's attention.

Housing
Bearded dragons under 10 inches long will do fine in a 20 gallon aquarium, but they grow fast so this would only last for a few months. When they get to their full 16 to 20 inches long they need at least a 40 gallon aquarium. The lid to the aquarium needs to be screen to allow the heat and light sources to work correctly and to allow the humidity to escape.

Bearded Dragons need to have florescent bulbs to be on 12-14 hours a day. The bearded dragon should have the option to go within six to eight inches of the light. The best heat source you can use is the porcelain dome light fixture.

A young bearded dragon needs a basking spot that is 110 degrees fahrenheight and adults need 95 degrees fahrenheight. The cool side of the aquarium should be around 85 degrees fahrenheight. At night it can be as low as 65 degrees fahrenheight. It is recommended that a theormometer is used on both the cool and hot sides to make sure the temperatures are in the right range. For cage substrate, it is recommended that newspaper, paper towels, butcher paper or reptile carpet be used.

Diet
Being omnivores, bearded dragons need a combined diet of meat and vegetables (20% vegetables and 80% meat). When bearded dragons just hatch out of their shell they will eat mostly insects. A baby dragon should be fed two to three times a day. At first they should be fed mostly insects, then as the dragon grows they should be introduced to vegetables.

A dragon should be fed everyday, as much as they can eat - they know when they are full and will not over-eat. When a dragon is a baby the insects should be coated with a calcium supplement everyday and as they get older supplement two or three times a week. This is not a hard process, all you have to do is put the insects inside a bag or small container and sprinkle  the supplement onto them, then shake gently for a few seconds. Make sure the insects that are being fed to the dragon are proportional to his size. The best way you can tell would be an insect no bigger than the space between a dragons eyes. The smaller the better for baby dragons or a dragon could choke and die. Crickets and mealworms are at the nearest pet store, but they need to be fed before they are fed to the dragon. There are also commercial Bearded Dragon foods and they can make life alot easier. They love it and it is healthy, but they also need variety.

Bearded dragons don't need a water dish, but their vegetables and the dragons should be sprayed daily. A baby dragon needs to be sprayed at least twice a day and an adult two or three times a week. If there is a water bowl in the cage, it must be changed daily or it will evaporate.

DO NOT FEED A BEARDED DRAGON:
1. Any type of lettuce besides romain - not nutritional
2. Fireflies/Lightening bugs - known to be toxic because of the phosphorous content
3. Any bug with pesticides (which includes any bug from the outdoors) - will kill a bearded dragon
4. Avocados - High amount of oxalic acid, and this could make a dragon sick or kill him
5. Rhubarb - TOXIC
6. Beet tops - Can cause calcium deficiency
7. Spinach - Same as beet tops

My baby boy Babaa died about three weeks ago, and his son, who has always been pretty fat and lazy, is left behind.

About three days after Babaa's death I went and got Dill a friend who was 1.5yo, but it didn't go well since they are both in-tact, older males. (Dill is ~1).. Well I brought the other rat back to the store where I got him (and he is now a stud ) and got a younger rat for Dill to be buds with.. he's ~5 months old.

They get along decently well but I noticed aside from a couple sparse play sessions that I've caught, Dill seems just as depressed as ever.. They DO cuddle, so I know they get along... but wtf! I've also noticed both of them now have Porphyrin staining their noses, and teeny-tiny amounts have been seen on their eyes.. I noticed a little dried spot of it on their cage.  I'm just so confused--especially since Dill gets a lot of my attention lately since Babaa died and he bruxes more than ever! He seems happier and depressed at the same time. I've heard him sneeze about 20 times today! Also, they both have scabs.. Dill kind of always has, and Little Rat had a couple when I got him, but now they both have about five each.

I have a baby due in literally three days and I love my little ratties so much, I'm so stressed about being in the hospital for a few days.. I'm so scared Dill is sick like Babaa (he had baaad baaad myco, but lived 27 months!)... I don't know if I can handle another ratty loss...

I want to tell myself to give it a couple days since they are both eating, drinking, and grooming themselves, but I'm afraid "a couple days" will be too much... Do you think it's just a lot of stress for him? Why would the other rat be sneezing too then?

For background information, their bedding is Yesterday's News and I feed them Reggie Rat and the odd human food treat.

Do I call and book them a vet appointment? I'm at a total loss....

Have you ever wondered what a particular group of animals is called? Here are ten common pets and their group names.

1. A group of rats or mice is called a mischief.
2. A group of gerbils is called a clan.
3. A group of sugar gliders is called a colony.
4. A group of ferrets is called a business.
5. A group of skunks is called a surfeit.
6. A group of rabbits is called herd.
7. A group of parrots is called a company.
8. A group of hedgehogs is called an array.
9. A group of hamsters is called a horde.
10. A group of fish is called a school.

Hedgehogs are fairly low maintenance pets. They don't make much more noise than a quiet purr when they are excited, they don't have any real temperature needs, they can be fed hedgehog food you get at the pet store, and they don't need much room in their cage. They are content as long as you feed and water them and give them an hour of out of cage time each day.

Hedgehogs have no real body oder and once they know how to use the litter box they can be free to roam around the house. Hedgehogs have a good memory so it should be no problem to remember where the litter box is placed. Some places that don't allow dogs or cats will allow hedgehogs because you barely even know they are there. They don't really chew on anything and they are easy to litter train. They love to play in tunnels or mazes and are easily entertained. Put an old used paper towel roll in front of them and they will have fun for hours.

Hedgehog Diet
Pet food for dogs and cats and dairy are too high in fat and too low in protein for pet hedgehogs. These types of foods should only be given as a treat every now and then. There are foods specially formulated for hedgehogs that you can purchase at local pet stores.

In the wild hedgehogs eat a variety of things from other animals to veggies.  You can feed your hedgehog any of these items as well:

• Insects
• Snails
• Frogs
• Toads
• Snakes
• Bird eggs
• Carrion
• Mushrooms
• Grass roots
• Berries
• Melons
• Watermelon

Interesting Hedgehog Facts

• Hedgehogs live on average four to seven years.  There have been recordings of hedgehogs living up to 16 years!
• Hedgehogs are born blind, with a soft and short spine and with a protective membrane which dries in a couple of hours.
• In 2006, McDonald's was nice enough to change their McFlurry containers so they would be more hedgehog friendly. In the wild, hedgehogs get their heads stuck inside of small places and eventually starve to death.
• A hedgehog curls up to go to sleep for protection from predators.
• When you hold a hedgehog their first thought is to curl up, but if you get them to trust you they should uncurl almost instantly.
• Hedgehogs are nocturnal

Pacific Blue Tangs love to swim so they need a large tank. They should not be mixed together with multiple Pacific Blue Tangs as they will fight.  They do great with fish that aren't their own species including most other not so aggressive tangs. The Pacific Blue Tang is one of the prettiest and least aggressive of the surgeonfish and do well in most all reefs and community setups.

The neon blue dwarf gourami is a bubble nest builder just like the betta fish.  Often you will see the males building bubble nests along side of floating plants, which helps to hold the nest together.  Striking color and a passive attitude makes this fish a great addition to any peaceful community aquarium.  Often dwarf gouramis enjoy the company of other dwarf gourami species.  

The Boesemani Rainbow is a schooling fish that prefers a planted aqarium with other Boesemani Rainbows.  They are a brave fish that will swim at the middle to top portion of the tank helping those more skittish fish to feel more comfortable.  These Rainbows are great fish for the peaceful community aquarium and will bring color and activity.  

I have been using this LED light system for about six or so months on a fresh water planted system.  I'm not sure how well it would grow corals but I would assume softies would grow okay with these lights.  I like the light system over all but I would like to add another light fixture because completely coverage isn't obtained with one of these fixtures in my 75 gallon aquarium.  I think a 55 gallon would be fine with one light because of the smaller depth of the tank.  I have the lights towards the back of the tank where the plants are so the front of the tank becomes a bit darker.  I do love the shimmer the lights put off like metal halides do.  Also these lights are very energy efficient and produce very little heat.  I like the idea of not having to change bulbs every 6-8 months as well.

Pros:  Low energy use, 54 watts!  Low heat created by the lights which helps the tank temp to not rise.  No need to change bulbs because they shift spectrum.  Nice shimmer effect the same as metal halides produce.

Cons:  Expensive technology.  Need more than one unit to really light up a tank from front to back.  The light switch has three settings, one for actinic only, one for off and one for both actinic and 10,000k.  This removes the ability to have timers on the system to swich from off, to actinic, to full light and vice versa.  This light system would not do well for a 60" tank.  It will fit because the legs extend out 6" on either side but the tank would be dark on the sides compared to the middle.

Other thoughts:  I will be much more impressed with these units once they get the cost down so they are more affordable.  We are in the very beginning of LED light systems and I think with a few years of technology they will become brighter as well as more cost effective over all.  

We have now moved the Rat Palace forums over to the Pet Research community.  We hope that the many viewers of the Rat Palace forums will sign up with us and join our new forums for all pets.  We look forward to you signing up and joining us on the forums!

I am thinking about getting a pet skunk. I have done a lot of research on them, and even wrote an article about owning a skunk and their care on this very site. But! You can only get so much from research. I would like to hear some stories of people who have actually had experience with a domesticated skunk so I know what to expect.

There are many pets that I have had in the past, but they were my parents pets that I would play with. No real reponsibility other than feeding them every now and again. But! I did have a bunny that was truely mine. His name was Oreo, but I called him BunBun. Sadly he passed away last December. He was about 8 years old when, I think, he had a stroke. When I first got him we would watch TV such as Spongebob together. There was only one time when we had to take him to the vet, other than vaccines. He choked on a piece of celery and we drove all the way there to find him to be perfectly fine.

Now I want to hear about your experiences with your pets now or in the past.

Anoles are small lizards native throughout the southeastern United States, the Caribbean and other Western regions.  Most anoles are green in color although they can change color to blend in with their environment based on their mood and their surroundings. They can change color pretty quickly, but if they stay brown for a long period of time it is a sign that they are stressed or ill.

Housing
As an adult, anoles are about eight inches long, and most of the length is in the tail.  If you have one or two anoles, it is best to have at least a 10 gallon aquarium, preferably a tall tank with a lid. If you have three or four you will need at least a 20 gallon tank. Anoles are best kept singularly or in small groups. If you are to get more than one, the best combination is two females and one male.

The best substrates to use in anole habitats are sterile peat moss potting soil over pea gravel. Stay away from sand or gravel substrates.  Anoles like to have hiding and climbing areas. Logs and branches are perfect for these basking areas.  Heating rocks and heated caves are not recommended for anoles.

The overall habitat temperature should be 75-80 degrees Fahrenheit with the humidity at 60%-70%, while night time should be 65 to 75 degrees. Basking temperatures should be slightly higher at 85 - 90 degrees Fahrenheit. In order to reach these temperatures use an incandescent light, ceramic heater, or under tank heating pad. Electronic timers are recommended for consistent heating.

Anoles need UVB lights on for 12-14 hours a day and nocturnal heat lights at night to keep consistent night temperatures.   Anoles don't drink from a bowl so you need to mist the plants and aquarium two times a day. You should clean your anoles tank at least once a week.

Diet
Anoles eat live insects, crickets, spiders and moths. Small feeder crickets are a perfect diet for anoles. Smaller anoles can't eat big bugs, so if they are under three inches you can feed them pinhead crickets or fruit flies.  Anoles should be fed daily and can eat as much as they care to.

General Health
Anoles can become highly stressed, causing dehydration, emaciation and parasites. Signs of dehydration include lack of appetite, sunken eyes or significant skin folds. If your anole becomes dehydrated you can boost the humidity in the tank for 24 hours before a vet visit is in order. When stressed, a green anole will turn brown during the day.

With proper care and housing, anoles can live between 4 and 8 years, sometimes longer.

Chinchillas are native to the Andes Mountains in South America, however they have been raised in captivity for years and generally love people.  As pets, chinchillas require a lot of exercise, a climate controlled habitat and a specialized diet. They also have an average lifespan of 15 years, with 18 - 22 years not being out of the question.  Be prepared for this long term commitment before getting a chinchilla.

Choosing a Chinchilla
Chinchillas all have their own unique personalities. A good way to see if a particular chinchilla would make a good pet is to put your hand inside the cage and keep still. If the chinchilla approaches your hand, they are likely very friendly and tame. If it keeps its distance or makes a noise, it may not be as easy to tame.

Chinchilla Needs
Chinchillas have teeth that grow continuously and if the teeth are not worn down properly, issues with eating can occur. Giving them some chew toys, such as wooden sticks or pumice stones, will help prevent their teeth from overgrowing. Most woods are safe, but you should stay away from conifer and citrus woods because they have too much resins, oils and phenols which can be harmful to your chinchilla.

Chinchillas are nocturnal and should be housed in a place that doesn't have much noise during the day. Bedrooms or living rooms that are not main living areas are ideal.  Room temperature is also a factor as chinchillas can't sweat. If the temperature raises above 80 degrees Fahrenheit your chinchilla can be at risk of having a heat stroke. If the ears become red then you know they are too hot.  Due to this factor, never put the cage close to a window where sunlight may overheat your chinchilla.

Chinchilla Housing
Chinchillas need a roomy cage to run around in as they are very active animals. There are exercise wheels sold that are made specifically for chinchillas.  If introduced at a young age, chinchillas love to run on the wheel. This gives them exercise and something to do while your sleeping or at work. Avoid giving your chinchilla anything made of plastic, including wheels. They enjoy chewing and plastic items will be destroyed in a matter of days. This includes bowls, toys, water bottles, and the actual cage.

Be thoughtful of how you arrange the cage, chinchillas are known for climbing. They appreciate more climbing areas and different levels in the cage. If you decide to get your pet chinchilla a large ball to walk in outside the cage, be cautious. They don't have much breathing room and your chinchilla could easily overheat. Chinchillas also like hiding places. You could use a shoe-box (which would need to be replaced often), or small homes used for other small animals. Keep in mind to avoid plastic! When your chinchilla is running around free, be sure to supervise closely.  They explore with their teeth and this could be fatal if they chew into a socket or cord that is plugged in.

Your chinchilla's cage needs to be thoroughly cleaned at least once a week for one chinchilla and more if you have more chinchillas.  Recycled paper based bedding is best.  Stay away from clumping litters or pine and cedar litters as they are harmful to all small animals.

Chinchilla Diet
Timothy hay and hay-based pellets made for chinchillas should meet all dietary needs. You should avoid the pellets that are a mixture because they will eat around the pellets and just eat the raisins and seeds. Don't feed your chinchilla fresh fruit because that can cause bloating and this could kill your chinchilla. You should also limit sweets and dry fruit treats to one per day. Chinchillas can not process fatty foods, high protein foods or an abundance of green plants.

Dust Baths
Chinchillas require dust baths to clean their fur. The dust is made of fine pumice and absorbs dirt and oil.  You should be able to buy the dust for dust baths at you nearest pet store, don't use anything other than dust made for chinchillas. Dust baths keep chinchilla's thick fur silky and smooth. Giving them a standard bath with water is not acceptable as their thick coat prevents them from self drying, which can introduce fungus or bacteria. Offer the dust bath at least twice a week, but don't offer it all the time. If they always have the opportunity then they will use it to their full advantage and that can dry out their skin. You can reuse the dust for multiple baths as long as you clean out any waste they left behind. Dust baths can be a little messy since when the chinchilla is finished dust bathing they will shake it off leaving dirt residue on everything around your little friend.

How to Give a Dust Bath
1. Get dust and small container from your nearest pet store. There are special dust bath "houses" that help contain the dust.
2. Fill the container with about 1 to 2 inches of dust.
3. Gear your chinchilla toward the dust - when they realize the bath is waiting for them, they will be more than happy to do the rest themselves.

Chinchilla Proofing Your House
If your chinchilla is running around your house, you should be sure to keep it safe by "chinchilla proofing" the house so they don't hurt themselves. You should use cord covers for the rooms that your chinchilla explores and keep your cleaning items in a cabinet away from the curious explorer. They are curious animals and will get into just about anything they come across.

Skunk

As hard as it might be to believe, skunks actually make pretty amazing pets. If you raise them correctly, they can become lap pets and friendly pets. Generally, they get along with other animals such as dogs and cats, but the respect has to be mutual. It is better to get skunks at a young age so you can raise them to be accustomed to other pets. Skunks are quick learners and can be trained easily. Similar to cats, skunks can be litter trained. BUT! Skunks like to chew so, in order to distract him/her from your furniture you need to provide your skunk with some type of chew toy.

Before getting a pet skunk, check the laws for the state you live in as many have restrictions.  For example, in Kentucky the law states that you can't import a skunk, you must get a skunk from a breeder within state, and you must apply for a wildlife permit, which costs $75.00 for a 3 year permit.

Skunk Don'ts
1. DON'T FEED YOUR SKUNK CAT FOOD - It is too high in protein and fat.

2. DON'T LEAVE YOUR SKUNK OUTSIDE UNATTENDED - Skunks don't have a sense of home like dogs and cats do and they WILL wonder off and likely won't find their way back home.

3. DON'T KEEP YOUR SKUNK LOCKED INSIDE A CAGE - When confined, skunks feel neglected and start acting up, and may develop bad behaviors, such as biting, in order to get attention.

4. DON'T LEAVE FOOD OUT - Skunks can and will get into food sources available to them and sometimes that could be harmful to them.

5. DON'T HIT YOUR SKUNK - As with any animal, hitting is not a way of training.  Skunks will become aggressive with this type of correction and will remember forever that you harmed them.

Skunk Diet
It is recommended that skunks have 30% to 40% vegetables and 60% to 70% meats and dairy products. Skunks don't like eating the same thing day by day so spice it up a little. Canned foods have alot of salt, which isn't necessarily good for skunks. Skunks will eat until they make themselves sick so be sure to give them food in moderation! A healthy weight for a skunk is between 8 to 12 pounds. Be careful, skunks do like to eat rodents and other small animals, so keep them away from any small pets you may have in the house.

If you have food out, don't think your skunk can't get to it.  They are very clever and can move chairs, climb and move boxes or other available objects. If you are not careful your skunk will be sitting in YOUR chair eating YOUR snacks that were left out!

Skunk Medical Care
Skunks have scent glands that enable them to spray their predators.  If you adopt a pet skunk you should get the scent glands removed so they can't spray you or other pets. Skunks should be spayed or neutered between four to six months, otherwise they may develop stressful behavior problems that can give your beloved pet health problems. Skunks need their nails trimmed every month so they don't get too long - dog nail trimmers will do the job. As with any household pet, it is recommended that they have a yearly checkup with a veterinarian. The average lifespan of a pet skunk is between 8 to 12 years.

Skunk Percussions
Skunks are very intelligent and curious. They enjoy exploring things, such as cabinets or refrigerators. You may need to get some child locks to make sure they don't hurt themselves or get into something that could kill them, such as chemicals or harmful foods. Also, be sure that if they do decide to climb that they can get down easily without hurting themselves.

Skunks can bite, but if you get them at a young age you can wean them of such behaviors. Saying "NO BITE" in a stern voice repeatedly is the best way to curb this behavior.

I just bought new rats today, 2 females. I have had rats before but that was a looonng time ago. I bought them from a local pet store. There were alot of these young rats in one 10 gallon tank. I picked the 2 that were at least a little bit curious about me. I got them home and into there new cage and let them settle for about 2 hours. Then I went back to give them abit of attention. I expected them to be a little nervous but I have been trying all day and they still jump and squeek everytime I try to touch them. I don't remember my other rat being that scared of me from the start but as I said that was a long time ago. I even tried giving them a bit of apple. They wouldn't even sniff it while I was holding it. So could I get some suggestions? Should I leave them alone and give them more time to get used to the place? Or should I just keep trying. (by the way I do own a dog. she is very well behaved and only showed a little intrest in them for the first few minutes I was home with them.)  I left her scent on my hands because I would like them to get used to her too. Is this a mistake? Any info you could send my way would be very welcome!

Hi, i bought two rats from a local pet store. The first night i didn't notice any sneezing but then they started to sneeze on the second night. I have been watching everything. They have been eating regualarly, hey have been drinkingtheir water. They have shinny coats, and they play around a lot. They don't have any discharge from their eyes, nose, or ears. They have been grooming them selfevs and everything.

I have brrn feeding them festa rat food, and carrots, broccli, celery, some apples, and bannanas.

For bedding i am using supreme odor control pet bedding.

I'm just really worried because all i read that when a rat sneezes it means they are really sick. Ive called around and i can't seem to find a vet for my rats in the salem, oregon area. Does anyone have any suggestions about the sneezing or any thing else i could do for my rats?

Hi, i just recently bought two rats, the first night they were fine then they started to sneeze. I have checked for anything coming out of their eye nose and ears and there doesnt apper to be anything. They have been eating and drinking ive been keeping track of how much. Their droppings are light brown. They also have shinny coats and they have been playing. They arent having a labours breath. I'm just really scared they have some rat illness that will kill them, but i can't find a vet around the Salem, Oregon area.

Oh i am using supriem odor control pet bedding, and they are one a diet of fiesta rat food, i pick out the corn and the penuts cuz i heard to much of that stuff is bad. They also get one baby carot, brocolee and some celery. For traning I have been using ricecrispys. Is that a godd diet? Should i use different bedding.

Does anyone have any suggestions on what i should do? Would a regular vet work for my rats? My friend told me PetCO had a vet would they be of any help?   

all three are rats clyde is the albino

I have been trying to find reviews of The Barking Lot in Arvada, Co. Has anyone used them before?  I can't find anything online for them, they have been in business for 5 years and it makes me nervous knowing there are no reviews.

Please feel free to leave us comments or suggestions in this forum regarding our website.

Blue Buffalo Announces Pet Food Recall
Category: Pets and AnimalsVoluntary recall affects specific dog products.
Pet food manufacturer Blue Buffalo has announced a voluntary recall of specific production runs of their Wilderness Chicken – Dog, Basics Salmon – Dog, and Large Breed Adult Dog products. The recall resulted from the company’s discovery that increased levels of Vitamin D — above those of the product specifications — may have carried over into specific lots of these products because of an ingredient supplier error.
The lots affected are:Blue Wilderness Chicken (Dog) — Bag size of 4.5 lb., 11 lb., or 24 lb., with Best Used By Dates of JUL1211B, JUL1311B, JUL2611Z, JUL2711Z, or JUL2811ZBlue Basics Salmon (Dog) — Bag size of 11 lb., or 24 lb., with Best Used By Dates of AUG2111B or AUG2211BBlue Large Breed Adult Chicken — Bag size of 30 lb., with Best Used By Dates of SEP 22 11 P, SEP 23 11 P, or OCT 26 11 P
Although increased Vitamin D does not present a serious health risk in the majority of dogs, a very small percentage of canines are sensitive to higher levels of Vitamin D. In a statement, Blue Buffalo urged owners to watch for symptoms of an adverse reaction. These symptoms include “excessive water intake and/or excessive urination, and in some cases vomiting.” Owners of dogs showing any adverse reaction to recalled products should bring them to the veterinarian, and Blue Buffalo will reimburse any veterinary or testing expenses related to illness caused by these products.In addition to the voluntary recall, all products with the specific manufacturing dates in question will be removed from retailer’s shelves. According the company’s statement, owners with any products with the codes above should “stop feeding them immediately. You may call Blue Buffalo at to arrange for return of the product and reimbursement.”

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Ok, so i know that there are many threads on this topic.. but i have one question that hasnt been answered in ANY of them. My daughters one rat (montana) has what im 99% sure are lice, I called around to local vets and the closest one to us is about and hour and a half away and charges A LOT and i mean A LOT, so i have decided to treat montana at home. Given everything i have read on numerous sites it seemed that ivermectin was the treatment of choice, so i ordered it... it was suppose to come yesterday and when it didnt, seeing as how ill she was acting and my daughter was beside herself that we NEEDED to do something right NOW, i gave her one drop of advantage on her skin (which i also read is ok to use).. anyway, finally here is my question... the ivermectin came today, should i start using the treatment plan for the ivermectin even after giving her the advantage yesterday? Should i hold off on the ivermectin and just use the advantage? Should i use both as directed? i dont want to hurt her and i cant find the answer anywhere. thanks in advance!

Hello:

 I have a 5 yr old female dwarf rabbit who is spayed. I've had her since she was 2 mo old and she was easily litter trained both with pee and poo. She is adorable and has friendliest personality of any rabbit I've ever owned.  A few mo ago, however, she started pooping outside her litter boxes.  I keep her in a 5'x7' pen that  has an open cage inside it. She jumps in and out of the cage at will. She spends a good part of her day going back and forth between the cage and her pen. I keep one litter box is in the cage and one in the pen.
Almost a year ago, we moved to a new house.  I have a walk-out basement and my bunny has her pen in my living room.  Everything has been fine until about 4 mo ago.  I picked her up and was holding her like I always do and she suddenly urinated all over me.  I put her in her litter box which she jumped right out of.  Since that time, she has done the same thing about 2-3 more times.  Can you tell me what the problem might be?
I have been picking her up less and just sitting in her pen w/her and letting her come to me.  Then I give her a treat and pet her.
Tonight I noticed she peed outside her litter box inside the cage.  She has done this only occasionally since I adopted her. 
Can you please tell me why she may be displaying this sudden behavior of urinating on me?  Also, can you shed any light on how I might get her to start pooping in her box again?

Thank you!

Buddy, Blue and Lois Lane romping in the living room on a Saturday morning. Notice Lois Lane's dominance attempt during the boy's play time. Silly girl.

Dog Facts

 A dog’s nose has about 4 times as many scent cells as a cat’s and 14 times more than a human’s. That’s why dogs are often used to track down illegal drugs and missing persons. They can sniff out their dinner from any room in the house!

 Dogs see in color, but not the same way that we do. Veterinary ophthalmologists have found that dogs are similar to people with red/green color blindness, meaning they can see bluish and greenish shades but not reddish ones. To a dog, a bright orange ball on a grassy lawn appears as a light greenish ball in greenish grass. Go fetch!

 According to a recent survey, the most popular name for a dog is Max. Other popular names include Molly, Sam, Zach, and Maggie.

 An estimated 1 million dogs in the United States have been named the primary beneficiary in their owner's will.

Contrary to popular belief, dogs do not sweat by salivating. They sweat through the pads of their feet.

Every known dog, except the chow, has a pink tongue - a chow's tongue is black.

Dogs can alert their owners of an epileptic seizure up to an hour before it occurs.

The dog was one of the first animals domesticated by humans.

The heaviest dog ever weighed 319 pounds.

The oldest dog ever died at age 29.

Cat Facts

A cat will almost never meow at another cat. Cats use this sound for humans.

A cat uses its whiskers as feelers to determine if a space is too small to squeeze through.

A cat can be either right-pawed or left-pawed.

A cat can jump as much as 7 times its height.

Cats cannot break a sweat because they have no sweat glands.

A cat's brain is more similar to a human's brain than that of a dog.

A cat sees about 6 times better than a human at night.

A cat's tongue is scratchy because it's lined with papillae - tiny backwards hooks that help to hold prey in place.

A fifteen year old cat has probably spent ten years of its life sleeping.

A frightened cat can run at speeds of up to 31 mph, slightly faster than a human sprinter.

All kittens are born with blue eyes.

Cat families usually play best in even numbers. Cats and kittens should be acquired in pairs whenever possible.

Cats can see color. Studies have shown that cats can distinguish between red and green; red and blue; red and gray; green and blue; green and gray; blue and gray; yellow and blue, and yellow and gray.

Cats have a third eyelid that is rarely visible. If it can be seen, it could be an indication of ill health.

Cats lack a true collarbone and can generally squeeze their bodies through any space they can get their heads through.

A female cat may have three to seven kittens every four months. This is why having your pets spayed and neutered is so important.

Tell us of any additional Cat or Dog facts that you know...

Heaves is a respiratory disease of horses 6 years of age or older, characterized by difficulty breathing, chronic coughing, abnormal lung sounds and decreased exercise tolerance. These signs manifest themselves as a result of narrowing of the small airways of the lungs. This narrowing is caused by inflammation and thickening of the lung tissues, constriction of the smooth muscles surrounding the lungs and accumulation of mucous and exudate within the lumens of the lungs. The end result is known as emphysema or a trapping of air in the lungs.

With the narrowing of the small airways of the lungs, horses with heaves experience difficulty pulling air into the lungs as well as pushing the air out again. As the condition worsens, severely affected horses are seen to contract the muscles of the abdominal wall during the last phase of exhalation, causing the floor of the abdominal wall to lift up at the very end of exhalation. As a result, the lungs tend to remain over-inflated causing a condition referred to as functional or reversible emphysema.

In severe cases, the disease can progress to the point that permanent, non-reversible damage occurs in some portions of the lung tissue. In many cases, however, much of the loss of lung function that occurs with heaves is reversible with careful management of the horse and it's environment.

Although heaves has long been recognized as a disease of horses, it's exact cause remains uncertain. Most evidence suggests that the inflammation of the small airways occurs as a result of an allergic reaction to dusts and molds, especially those found in poorly cured hay.

Common risk factors include:

1. Exposure to improperly cured, moldy or dusty feeds

2. Confinement to a stable environment

3. Inadequate stable ventilation

4. Straw bedding

5. Being 6 years of age or older

Most modern treatments of heaves in horses involves the use of drugs to decrease the amount of inflammation and the accumulation of inflammatory exudate in the respiratory tract, to dilate the airways and to speed up the clearance of mucus and inflammatory debris from the respiratory tract. The duration of the disease depends largely upon the amount of effort given to improving the conditions under which the horse is kept.

Complete or near complete recovery from the symptoms of heaves has been reported in horses turned out to pasture or moved into a well-ventilated stall, fed cubed or pelleted roughage with dampened grain and provided with bedding that is virtually dust and mold free, such as shredded paper or high-quality wood shavings.

For years I've always boiled tap water for 1 minute, then added the sugar, then let completely cool off before filling the feeders.   Since the cool off time could take an hour, I have tried something I read which is to only boil half the water so that the sugar can fully dissolve, then adding cool tap water for the remainder.  This was very easy and cut out the cool off time completely...but the birds don't seem to like the sugar water now.  What could that taste differently...could the cool tap water have too much chlorine taste?   

Old age is not a disease. Improved nutrition and exercise, as well as advances in veterinary medicine, result in longer and healthier lives for our pets. Although your pet’s health as he ages is not entirely in your control, you play a critical role in keeping him active and comfortable. Being aware of the natural changes that can occur will ensure that you both enjoy this stage in his or her life.

The first sign of aging that you will notice is often a general decrease in activity, combined with a tendency to sleep longer and more soundly. Just as in humans, the aging process varies with each individual. When you first see those gray hairs on your dogs’s muzzle, don’t be upset – he isn’t! He doesn’t know he’s getting older. He isn’t concerned about the gray hairs or other physical changes – such as not being as active or limber as he once was. He doesn’t really fret over his decreasing eyesight, hearing, and smelling. He doesn’t stress about sleeping all day – he just takes it one day at a time.

One of the most important concepts to embrace is prevention. Don’t wait until your pet is sick before you take him or her to the vet. Regular check-ups, or wellness exams, are crucial to his or her health and quality of life as she ages. These regular checkups are critical. You may be prompted by your vet to bring your dog in for a senior wellness exam. What exactly is that? And when is a dog considered a SENIOR? This varies, but the typical geriatric onset ages are as follows:

Less than 20 lbs (small) 7 years
21-50 lbs (medium) 7 years
51-90 lbs (large) 6 years
Greater than 90 lbs (giant) 5 years

Screening should begin as follows:

Small 10-13 years
Medium 8-12 years
Large 7-10 years
Giant 5-7 years

Again, these numbers vary; the aging process varies with each individual pet. That’s why a baseline assessment is so important.

What does the ‘Senior Wellness Exam’ consist of?
It is a thorough going-over by your vet who will check the following:

- vital signs
- eyes and ears for redness, discharge, or other signs of disease
- lumps, bumps, and any tenderness
- teeth and gums for redness, puffiness, and plaque
- skin for flakiness, rashes, other abnormalities
- blood chemistry profile to check for liver and kidney diseases, infections, anemia
- urinalysis to check for urinary tract disease and impaired kidney function
- thyroid panel to check for proper functioning of thyroid.

As in humans, the best way your vet can interpret any and all exams and tests is by comparing them with previous ones. Which is why establishing a baseline as early as possible is important. The baseline is the first assessment and provides the standards against which all subsequent tests will be measured. Early detection increases likelihood that any problems can be treated, and in the long run is far less expensive. REPEAT – far less expensive.

In between wellness exams, there is much you can do to monitor your dog’s health. Pay attention to the following:
-
- How much food is he eating? Does he leave hard food and eat only soft? Any difficulty eating or swallowing? Any vomiting?
- Water consumption: more or less than usual?
- Output: more or less? Urine and poop: color, consistency, frequency. Any pain? Incontinence?
- Weight changes?
- Groom regularly: check for lumps, bumps, sores. Hair loss? Abnormal odors?
- Behavior: sleep patterns, obeying, incontinence, behavior around people, anxious when left alone?
- Activity and mobility: stairs, does exercise cause unusual exhaustion? Bumping into things, collapsing? Balance? Change in gait?
- Respiration: coughing, panting, sneezing?
- Dental care: drooling, sores, bad breath, swollen gums, gum color: yellow, light pink, or purplish?
- Is your dog unusually hot or cold?

Be aware of any and all conditions and changes. The more you can tell your vet, the better – remember – you are your pets’ communicator. The vet can’t treat what he doesn’t know.

Finally, the following points will help you and your pet enjoy this chapter of your lives.

1. Nutritional needs change as your pet ages. Although this is the most common problem in aging pets, it is the easiest to control. Your pet’s weight is entirely up to you. Discuss with your vet how to manage your pet’s weight, then stick to it. Obesity puts pressure on joints and internal organs. Not only will too much weight reduce your pet’s lifespan, it will also make his remaining years possibly painful and expensive.

2. Exercise keeps your pet happier, both physically and mentally. As he ages, you must increase the frequency and decrease the intensity of physical exertion. Again, you are in control. Dogs, especially, will overdo it if you let them. So pay attention and maintain consistent, low intensity recreation.

3. Dental care is always critical, but especially so in older dogs. Bad teeth and mouth can make eating painful as well as spread bacteria throughout the body to vital organs. Prevention is key. It is never too late to start brushing your dog’s teeth. Start at the vet and get a professional assessment of his mouth and teeth. The vet may or may not want to do dentistry which involves anesthesia. Risks of anesthesia have decreased greatly in recent years. Still, it is a conversation you must have with your vet.

4. As dogs and cats lose hearing and sight, they do just fine. Again, it is up to you to keep their world safe. And consistent (don’t move the furniture!).

5. Incontinence is almost inevitable. The first thing to do when Fido starts having accidents is rule out any health problem. There could be infection, loss of muscle tone, or other treatable causes. If not, it is manageable. Think towels, washable rugs for bedding, or diapers when you must be away for extended lengths of time.

6. Benign fatty tumors are common and usually nothing to worry about. Pay attention to change (again, the baseline) and be prepared to discuss in detail with your vet to evaluate. Your pet will love when you check him regularly for lumps and bumps!

I have merely mentioned things to watch. Much more detailed information is available on any one of the following sites:

www.srdogs.com/Pages/care.tips.html
www.doglogic.com/geriatrics.htm
http://www.peteducation.com/
http://www.bellaonline.com/subjects/571.asp
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/pic/article.cfm?aid=235

Lois Lane is an Australian Kelpie mix who we adopted from a local rescue in July of 2006. She's a feisty little girl and one of the smartest dogs we've ever had. Last July, when she was 4 years old, Lois Lane was diagnosed with severe canine pancreatitis. We never believed she would truly pull through, but she did. It was a very difficult process for her and for us and we hope Lois Lane's story will help shed some light on pancreatitis symptoms so that your dog may not have to go through what Lois did. Knowing the symptoms and getting help right away will be a huge stress reliever - on yourself, your dog and your wallet.

We first noticed Lois Lane gaining weight, particularly in her belly. Lois is a very food driven dog and would snatch up dog food, cat food or any food she found at any time she could. We began watching her closely at meal times to ensure she was only eating her food in hopes of dropping her down a few pounds. We then noticed that as Lois slept she began twitching a lot and seemed to be distant towards us, which is very uncommon for her social personality. She would still come when called, however it was with the attitude that she didn't really want to or didn't really feel like getting up.

This behavior continued and the twitching got worse and would occur in any one of her legs anytime she would lay down - asleep or not. We suspected she may be having seizures. The initial vet trip resulted in a confirmation of seizure activity brought on by epilepsy and a round of Phenobarbital was started. The seizure like episodes continued for the next week with no indication that the medication was helping. 

Lois had gotten to the point where she was not eating much, she was aloof and lethargic and not herself at all. Her little belly was still distended and she began regurgitating what little she did eat. So back to the vet we went, this time seeing a different veterinarian who immediately ordered more blood tests and removed Lois from the Phenobarbital stating she was not having seizures and did not have epilepsy. With the blood results, the veterinarian suspected pancreas problems and asked that we leave Lois over night for observation and for intravenous fluids. When vomiting is severe, treatment begins with withholding of food, water, and oral medications for at least 24 hours. This stops the stimulation of the pancreas and keeps digestive enzymes from being produced. Fluid therapy was also done, as is common practice, to help prevent dehydration and electrolyte imbalances.

Generally after a day, or sometimes more, food and water intake resumes at a gradual pace, starting with a bland, easily digestible, high carb, low-fat food. Over a period of a week or so, the meal size is increased. Some dogs must stay on this special diet for life, others can gradually get back to a normal diet, though all diets should remain low-fat. This was not the case for Lois Lane. Lois continued to get worse and by the weekend needed 24 hour observation and care. She was not eating or drinking at all and continued to vomit at regular intervals.

Because Lois was at our regular vet who only carries week day hours and no after-hour care, it was recommended that she go to the 24 hour care vet, who only take in pets upon veterinary recommendation. Lois was transported to the new facility where she received superb 24 hour care. She was there for two weeks. Her pancreatitis became so bad that her refusal to eat put her at high risk to not pull through and we were at the point of having to make a very hard decision for our beloved girl. After the first week in doggie ICU something drastic had to be done or we were going to lose her. A feeding tube was inserted via Lois' neck and fed down into her intestines to bypass the stomach, therefore preventing the pancreas from triggering digestive enzymes. She kept the feeding tube for a week before the specialist vet felt comfortable with attempting to remove it in hopes that Lois would eat on her own again. She was still regurgitating, but only in small amounts, and we had to get her off of the tube. She had to eat again - it was her last chance.

The tube was removed and she slowly started accepting the prescription diet and water when offered to her by the vet. After she was eating on her own for a few days, much to our excitement, she was released to come home under a very strict diet of only her prescription food. As happy as she was to be back home, she once again began refusing food. After three days of us trying to coax her to eat we had to do something or she was going to starve to death. We even tried baking the food into treat nuggets, but she even turned her nose up at those. Research was done on other types of extreme low-fat food and we called the vet back with two that we found that we thought would work. The first one we tried gave the same result as the prescription food where Lois would sniff at the food and then turn around and walk away, not even trying a nibble. So we then tried a third food, and luckily the third time was a charm. She took one smell and scarfed the little test amount we had given her. From that point on she's eaten the food and loves it. We special order it cases at a time to ensure she never runs out due to the store being out of stock.

I'm happy to say that Lois pulled through and is back to her normal, feisty self. It was close though and it was a rough road. She is on medications and diet food for life. She can't be given any other food, especially any food high in fat. We have to take care that she can't get into garbage cans, the cat food, or the other dog's food. When guests are here she must be put up for fear of someone accidentally feeding her table scraps when we have cookouts. But it's all worth it. Our little girl came home and now has a second chance at life.

Here are just a few of many reasons why:

Your pets are comfortable, relaxed, and less anxieties,
No chance of catching fleas,viruses, or contagious diseases.
Do you have long work hours or
ever get stuck at the office?
Do you live in a apartment
Do you need a vacation or
just want to get away for the weekend?
Does your new puppy need more attention than you have time for?
Are you tired of imposing on your neighbors and relatives?
These are all reasons why You and your pets need a professional pet sitter. Not to mention your home is being occupied throughout the day.visit my website for more information on my serviceswww.KristysAnimalCare.com

I read on Pet Research about adding a very small amount of vanilla to home prepared hummingbird water. I tried it and it's been a success with the birds.  Has anyone else used vanilla or any other flavor?  What have you used and what were your outcomes?

It's that dreaded time of year again - tick season!  Whether you are going camping, hiking or just hanging in your own backyard with your pet, ticks are something we all need to be aware of for ourselves and our pets.  There are over 850 different species of ticks and they will feed on every kind of vertebrate animals, including your pets.

How do ticks get on my pet?

Ticks are generally picked up when walking through wooded areas or areas of tall grass.  The ticks climb onto branches, limbs or grass and wait for a mammal to walk past and then drop down onto the host.  Ticks will not attach themselves to their host immediately, but rather find the best place to feed.  Running a wide tooth flea comb through your pet's fur will help find the ticks before they latch on, making removal much easier.

Tick Removal

The best way to remove a tick from your pet is to use a pair of tweezers to grab the body of the tick and pull very slowly and gently until the mouthparts of the tick release.  This should leave a small hole in the skin of your pet.  If you see black lines, the head of the tick is still attached.  If this happens, you should attempt to remove the head by scraping it out with a needle. You may need veterinary assistance to remove the tick head.  If not removed the area could become infected.

Once the tick has been removed, drop it into alcohol to kill it.  Flushing them down the toilet will not kill them.

Tick Disease

Ticks can cause diseases such as Lyme disease, Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever, ehrlichiosis, anaplasmosis and others, which can be detrimental to your pets.  Lyme disease is typically carried by small deer ticks which are about the size of the head of a pin before they feed.  This means you must thoroughly check over your pets for ticks and look carefully.

If symptoms of Lyme disease are noticed early an antibiotic treatment is effective in combating the disease.  Symptoms of Lyme disease include high fever, stiffness or arthritic symptoms (stage 1); nervous system and heart issues (stage 2); musculoskeletal system (stage 3).  A small, round rash at the site of the bite is an early sign of a problem.

Lyme disease vaccinations are available for dogs and lasts through one tick season.

Tick Control Methods

The best way to combat ticks on your pets is to practice tick control.  There are many products that are available at your local pet store to help control ticks in dogs and cats, such as Advantix, which is for dogs, and Frontline, which is made for dogs and cats.  Also, if possible, avoid walking your dog in heavily wooded areas or fields of high grass.  Do not allow cats to roam on their own as they will almost always end up in woods or tall grasses.  If your pet is in one of these areas, be sure to do a tick check as soon as you return home and remove any ticks you may find.

How do you get a dog to walk on a leash? I'm talking about a Yorkie that will not walk. She just lays down. I have found that I can carry her a short distance from home, put her down, and then she will walk home. I am using a regular collar and lead. Would using a harness be better, so I can lift her to her feet? She is 7 years old and a little overweight. Thanks for any advice.

Since rabbits are naturally clean and will choose one or more toilet areas, they are generally fairly easy to litter train. Older rabbits are usually easier to train than younger rabbits, especially babies. As a rabbit ages, his attention span and ability to learn increases. If your pet rabbit is a baby, you will need to be patient and allow him to mature. If you are considering adopting an older rabbit or you wish to litter train an older pet rabbit you already own, you can be confident of successful results.

Having your pet rabbit spayed or neutered will make litter training much easier. When rabbits reach 4-6 months of age, their hormones become active and they will begin marking their territory with urine and feces. If your pet has been spayed or neutered, he/she will be more likely to use their litter box.

The first step in litter training your pet rabbit is to choose a suitable litter. Because your rabbit will most likely lay in the litter or even nibble on it, something absorbent and safe is essential. A litter that also absorbs odor is ideal since rabbit urine has a strong odor. Organic or paper-based pellets and litters such as Yesterday's News, are an excellent choice. Using rabbit pellets as litter is also a safe and economical choice if your pet does not continually eat extra pellets from the litter box and/or is not overweight.

Do not use cedar or pine wood shavings as they can emit toxic fumes that can be harmful or even fatal to your pet. Clay or clumping litters are not recommended as they will clump inside the rabbit's digestive and respiratory tracts. Another safe option is to use hay as litter. Placing several layers of newspaper under the hay will help absorb the urine. Be sure to check with your local newspaper office to make sure they are using soy-based ink which is safe for your rabbit. It will be necessary to change the hay and newspapers daily.

It is important that the litter box be the appropriate size for your pet bunny. Cat litter boxes work very well. Smaller pans such as cake pans or pyrex baking dishes are good choices for smaller rabbits. If your rabbit tends to kick litter out of the litter box, you may want to try a covered litter box or experiment with different litters.

The litter box should be placed in an area the rabbit has already chosen for toilet use. You may need to use several litter boxes in the early stages of training. As your pet becomes more confident,you can begin removing them until only one remains. Rabbits are very habitual and once a routine is established, they will usually stick with it. If your rabbit continually uses a spot where there is no litter box, move his box there. You may have to rearrange his cage to do so but this is much easier than trying to work against a determined bunny!

Be sure to clean the litter box often to encourage your pet to use it. White vinegar is an excellent cleaning agent that is safe as well as effective. Tough stains can be soaked for easier removal.

Take time to observe your bunny. If you pay close attention, your pet will tell you when and where he plans to eliminate. Many rabbits use body language to announce their plans. He may back into a corner, begin to raise his tail and relax his ears slightly. He may simply return to the toilet area he used earlier. If you catch him in the act and gently herd him to the litter box, he will eventually connect the dots! Always lavish your pet with praise each time he successfully uses the litter box.

Punishment and reprimands have NO place in litter training your bunny! You do not want to associate the litter box with punishment or reprimand. If your rabbit is making too many mistakes, try giving him less space to roam in. Keep him confined to his cage when you are unable to supervise him. Be patient and persistent and in time you will be rewarded for your efforts.

In the meantime, spend time each day with your adorable little bunny and enjoy being entertained by watching his unique bunny behaviors!